Sbarro, The Brooklyn Pizza Chain

Hey everyone, welcome back to *Brooklyn Echoes*, the podcast that keeps the borough’s legends and memories alive. I’m your host, Robert Henriksen.

Ladies and gentlemen, gather ’round for a slice of American entrepreneurial spirit, served hot and fresh with a New York twist. Today, we’re diving into the story of Sbarro, the pizza chain that’s been folding slices into hearts—and stomachs—for nearly seven decades. Picture this: a bustling Italian grocery store in Brooklyn, where the aroma of fresh mozzarella and tomato sauce draws in hungry workers like moths to a flame. That’s where it all began.

Back in 1956, Gennaro and Carmela Sbarro, fresh off the boat from Naples, Italy, opened their first salumeria—an Italian deli—in the Bensonhurst neighborhood of Brooklyn, at 1701 65th Street and 17th Avenue. Along with their three sons, Joseph, Mario, and Anthony, they dished out authentic Italian fare: cured meats, cheeses, and homemade specialties. But it was Carmela, affectionately known as “Mama Sbarro,” who stole the show. She started whipping up pizza slices for the local shift workers looking for a quick, hearty bite after long days. Those slices? They were a hit—crispy, cheesy, and oversized, just like the New York style we know today. The family’s passion for fresh ingredients and simple, flavorful food turned that little shop into a local legend, leading to more locations around New York City.

By the 1970s, Sbarro was ready to level up. In 1970, they opened their first mall-based restaurant in Brooklyn’s Kings Plaza Shopping Center, tapping into the booming suburban mall culture. This move was genius—shoppers could grab a quick slice between browsing stores, and Sbarro became synonymous with food court feasts. The chain exploded, expanding across the U.S. and internationally, popping up in airports, college campuses, casinos, and even the Pentagon. At its peak, Sbarro was everywhere, from the World Trade Center’s observation deck (tragically lost in the 9/11 attacks) to far-flung spots like the Philippines, where they opened their first store in 1990 and now boast over 50 locations.

But like any good story, Sbarro hit some rough patches. The early 2000s brought challenges: changing tastes, the decline of malls, and economic pressures. In 2007, the company was acquired by private equity firm MidOcean Partners. Then came the bankruptcies—first in 2011, when they filed Chapter 11, closing some stores and restructuring debt. They emerged stronger, but hit the wall again in 2014, filing once more amid too much debt and shifting consumer habits. Under new leadership, including CEO J. David Karam who took the helm in 2013, they moved headquarters from New York to Columbus, Ohio, revamped their pizza recipe with fresher ingredients, and focused on quality over quantity. They even experimented with a fast-casual concept called Pizza Cucinova, though it shuttered in 2020 due to the pandemic.

Fast-forward to today, December 2025, and Sbarro is thriving again. They’ve surpassed 800 restaurants worldwide across 28 countries, from the U.S. to places like India, the UK, and Saudi Arabia. Sure, they’ve closed some spots—like the longstanding Merritt Island location in Florida after 36 years—but they’re pushing forward with rebranding, new partnerships (hello, Mike’s Hot Honey for that spicy-sweet kick), and aggressive expansion plans. Their menu still centers on those iconic XL New York-style slices, plus pasta, salads, and stromboli, all served up quick and casual. And get this: they even launched delivery services to keep up with the times.

Of course, no tale is without its shadows. Sbarro faced criticism for food quality in the past, with some calling it “America’s least essential restaurant” back in 2011. And in 2022, during the Russia-Ukraine conflict, they drew flak for not pulling out of the Russian market. Plus, there’s the heartbreaking 2001 suicide bombing at a Sbarro in Jerusalem, which killed 16 people—a stark reminder of how global events can touch even a pizza chain.

Yet, through it all, Sbarro endures as a symbol of immigrant grit and comfort food nostalgia. Whether you’re folding a pepperoni slice on a mall bench or grabbing takeout in Birmingham, UK, it’s more than pizza—it’s a piece of the American dream. So next time you spot a Sbarro, tip your hat to Mama Sbarro and take a bite. Thanks for listening—now go get yourself a slice!

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