Totonno’s Pizza Coney Island

Hey everyone, welcome back to *Brooklyn Echoes*, the podcast that keeps the borough’s legends and memories alive. I’m your host, Robert Henriksen.

Ladies and gentlemen, step right up to the boardwalk of Brooklyn’s pizza heritage, where the salty sea air mingles with the scent of bubbling mozzarella and charred crust. We’re slicing into the history of Totonno’s Pizzeria Napolitana, the Coney Island legend that’s been firing up coal ovens since 1924—a true survivor in the cutthroat world of New York pie slinging. If you’ve ever wondered where the roots of authentic American pizza dig deep, Totonno’s is a cornerstone, born from immigrant grit and still standing (albeit shakily) after a century of storms, literal and figurative.

Our story kicks off in the early 1900s with Antonio “Totonno” Pero, a baker hailing from Naples, Italy. Fresh off the boat, Totonno landed a gig at Lombardi’s in Manhattan’s Little Italy—the spot credited with kickstarting U.S. pizza in 1905. There, he honed his craft, baking thin-crust pies in a blazing coal oven for hungry workers who grabbed slices for a nickel. But tensions simmered: Legend has it a card game gone wrong (or just creative differences) led Totonno to split in 1924. Undeterred, he headed to Coney Island, then a booming amusement hub, and opened his own joint at 1524 Neptune Avenue. No frills, just pure Neapolitan magic: Whole pies only (no slices here), topped with San Marzano tomatoes, fresh mozzarella, and basil, baked at scorching temps for that signature leopard-spotted char. Totonno’s quickly became a beachside beacon, drawing crowds from thrill-seekers to locals craving a taste of the old country.

Through the decades, Totonno’s stayed a family affair. Totonno ran the show until his death in 1964, passing the torch to his children, including daughter Antoinette “Cookie” Cimineri, who started as a waitress in the ’70s and became the heart of the operation. Her uncle Jerry trained her in the art of dough-making, and she kept the recipes sacred—no frozen ingredients, no shortcuts. Grandchildren like Lawrence and Michael Cimineri joined in, making it the longest continuously family-operated pizzeria in America. The ’70s and ’80s saw Coney Island’s decline, but Totonno’s endured, even as rides faded. It weathered a devastating fire in 2009 that gutted the place (blamed on the ancient oven) and Hurricane Sandy in 2012, which flooded the neighborhood. Each time, the family rebuilt, brick by brick, oven by oven, reopening stronger with that same unyielding commitment to quality.

By the 2000s, Totonno’s was a pilgrimage site for pizza purists, earning accolades as one of the world’s best from critics and celebs alike. No expansions, no franchises—just that single, storied spot with its retro signage, wood-paneled walls, and a menu as simple as it gets: Margherita, white pie, pepperoni, and a few others, all cash-only until recently. But change loomed. In 2024, as they hit their centennial, the family announced they were seeking a new owner to carry the torch, citing the toll of running it amid aging and economic pressures. Indoor dining paused, shifting to takeout and delivery on weekends only.

Fast-forward to December 2025, and Totonno’s clings to life like a barnacle on the boardwalk. Recent updates show it’s still operating limited hours—takeout only on Saturdays and Sundays from noon to 5:30 p.m., with occasional closures for weather or maintenance. A Manhattan offshoot opened briefly but shuttered by year’s end. Whispers of closure swirl, with videos and posts mourning a potential end, but Instagram confirms pies are still emerging from that historic oven. Whether a buyer steps up or the Cimineri family finds a way forward remains uncertain, but for now, it’s a living piece of pizza history.

In a city where trends come and go like the tides, Totonno’s stands as a testament to tradition—immigrant dreams baked into every bite. So, if you’re in Brooklyn, grab a pie while you can; it might just be your last chance to taste a century of flavor. Thanks for joining this saucy saga—now go chase some history!

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