L&B Spumoni Gardens Brooklyn

Hey everyone, welcome back to *Brooklyn Echoes*, the podcast that keeps the borough’s legends and memories alive. I’m your host, Robert Henriksen.

Ladies and gentlemen, imagine a Brooklyn summer evening where the air hums with the chatter of families, the sizzle of dough hitting a hot oven, and the sweet chill of homemade ice cream melting on your tongue. We’re talking about L&B Spumoni Gardens, the Bensonhurst blockbuster that’s been a cornerstone of Italian-American comfort food since the late 1930s—a place where square pizza reigns supreme and spumoni flows like a frozen rainbow. If you’ve ever craved a slice that’s thick, saucy, and unapologetically Brooklyn, this is the spot that’s defined generations of cravings.

Our story starts in 1938 with Ludovico Barbati, a determined immigrant from Torella dei Lombardi, Italy, who arrived in the U.S. in 1917. Fresh off the boat, he learned the secrets of crafting spumoni and Italian ices from a local baker in a humble garage. Armed with that knowledge, Ludovico hit the streets of Gravesend and Bensonhurst, peddling his frozen treats from a horse-drawn wagon pulled by a trusty steed named Babe. It was pure hustle—clopping along, scooping colorful spumoni (that layered Italian ice cream with pistachio, chocolate, and vanilla, often studded with nuts and fruit) for pennies a pop. By 1939, success snowballed, and he planted roots at 2725 86th Street, transforming the operation into a full-fledged restaurant. What began as a sweets stand evolved into a pizza paradise when Ludovico’s Sicilian-style square pies stole the show—thick, focaccia-like dough topped with mozzarella first, then sauce, baked to crispy perfection in a gas oven.

Through the decades, L&B became a Brooklyn institution, passed down through four generations of the Barbati family. The ’50s and ’60s saw expansions: An outdoor garden for al fresco dining under twinkling lights, perfect for families chowing down on heroes, pasta, and those iconic squares. Tragedies struck too—in 2004, a mob-related shooting claimed the life of Louis Barbati, the third-generation owner, right outside the restaurant, shaking the community but not breaking the spirit. The family persevered, keeping the recipes sacred and the vibe welcoming. By the 2010s, L&B was a celebrity magnet—visits from stars like Adam Sandler and features on shows like “Man v. Food”—and expanded beyond Brooklyn with outposts in Staten Island and even Las Vegas, though the heart remains on 86th Street.

Let’s talk menu magic: The square pizza is the undisputed king—$32 for a full tray of 12 slices, with that upside-down layering (cheese under sauce) preventing sogginess and delivering a tangy, garlicky punch from their secret sauce. Add toppings like pepperoni or sausage for extra flair. Heroes like the veal cutlet parm ($15) or eggplant parm ($14) are hearty heroes in their own right, while pasta dishes—think baked ziti or linguine with clams—round out the Italian classics. And don’t skip the spumoni: Scoops of that tri-color delight ($5–$7) or Italian ices in flavors like lemon and rainbow, handmade daily. It’s casual, affordable, and abundant—order at the counter, grab a picnic table in the garden, and let the good times roll.

As of December 2025, L&B is hotter than ever. In September, Food Network crowned it New York’s must-try pizza spot, praising those squares as the pinnacle of Sicilian style. They’ve innovated too: A new DUMBO location at 46 Old Fulton Street opened, slinging seasonal specials like summer-inspired pies, while the original buzzes with 4.6 stars from over 11,000 reviews. Family-run under the fourth generation, they’ve weathered pandemics and gentrification, even launching online ordering and merchandise. Sure, some gripe about long lines or the no-frills setup, but loyalists—from kids on bikes to octogenarians—keep coming back for that nostalgic bite.

In a city of fleeting trends, L&B Spumoni Gardens endures as a testament to immigrant dreams and comfort food bliss. So, head to Bensonhurst or DUMBO, grab a square and a spumoni, and taste Brooklyn’s sweetest history. Thanks for tuning in—now go get your slice of paradise!

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