Lundy’s of Sheepshead Bay, Brooklyn

Hey everyone, welcome back to *Brooklyn Echoes*, the podcast that keeps the borough’s legends and memories alive. I’m your host, Robert Henriksen.

Ladies and gentlemen, step back in time with me to the salty shores of Sheepshead Bay, Brooklyn, where the waves lap against the docks and the air carries the promise of fresh seafood. Today, we’re unraveling the tale of Lundy’s, a legendary restaurant that once reigned as the king of clams and the sultan of shore dinners in this waterfront neighborhood. If you’ve ever wondered about the ghosts of New York’s grand old eateries, Lundy’s is a feast for the imagination—grand, gone, and now ghostly revived.

Our story starts in the Roaring Twenties, when Frederick William Irving Lundy—better known as Irving—spotted opportunity in the bustling fishing community of Sheepshead Bay. Born in 1893 to a family of oystermen, Irving grew up knee-deep in bivalves, learning the trade from his grandfather. In 1926, he opened his first modest clam bar right on the Emmons Avenue waterfront, serving up fresh catches straight from the bay. But Irving had bigger fish to fry. By 1931, he’d expanded, and in 1934, amid a government-backed redevelopment of the area, he unveiled a architectural marvel: a sprawling Spanish Mission Revival-style building designed by Bloch & Hesse. This wasn’t just a restaurant—it was a palace, with terra-cotta roofs, arched windows, and room for a staggering 2,800 diners across multiple levels. At its peak in the 1930s and ’40s, Lundy’s drew up to 15,000 patrons a day, employing 385 staff who hustled to serve heaping platters of seafood to everyone from locals to luminaries like Babe Ruth and Diamond Jim Brady.

What made Lundy’s legendary? The menu, my friends—a symphony of the sea. Signature “shore dinners” featured lobster, clams, corn on the cob, and those famous huckleberry biscuits, warm and fluffy, slathered in butter. Oysters on the half-shell, steamed clams, broiled bluefish, and fried shrimp were dished out in portions that could feed a small army, all sourced fresh from local waters. No reservations needed; it was first-come, first-served in a cavernous dining hall that buzzed like a beehive. Prices were wallet-friendly, drawing families, dates, and even gangsters for a taste of old-world indulgence. Through the Great Depression, World War II, and into the postwar boom, Lundy’s was a Brooklyn beacon, symbolizing abundance and community. But as the ’60s and ’70s rolled in, times changed: Urban decay hit Sheepshead Bay, fishing fleets dwindled, and the restaurant’s grandeur started to fade. Irving passed away in 1977, and with him went the soul of the place—Lundy’s shuttered its doors that same year after over four decades of service.

Ah, but legends don’t die easy. In 1995, a group of investors, including restaurateur Frank Cretella, scooped up the landmark building—designated a NYC landmark in 1992—and poured millions into a revival. Lundy’s reopened in 1997 with a sleeker vibe: Reduced seating to 800, a raw bar, and nods to the original menu like those biscuits and shore dinners. It drew crowds again, blending nostalgia with modern flair, but troubles loomed. Financial woes, including a bankruptcy filing, led to its final closure in 2007. The building sat vacant for years, briefly housing a McDonald’s in part of it, before being repurposed into retail space like a Russian supermarket. Today, the structure still stands at 1901 Emmons Avenue, a silent sentinel of Sheepshead Bay’s glory days, though no longer serving seafood.

Fast-forward to 2025, and Lundy’s spirit swims on—just not in Sheepshead Bay. In February, a new iteration debuted in Red Hook, Brooklyn, helmed by chef Akhtar Nawab and partners. This pint-sized version seats about 100, a far cry from the original’s sprawl, but it captures the essence with fresh seafood, those iconic biscuits, and a cozy, nautical vibe overlooking the water. Reviews praise the raw bar, lobster rolls, and fried clams, calling it a worthy homage amid Brooklyn’s evolving food scene. It’s not the same massive hall, but in a city that loves its revivals, Lundy’s lives again, proving that some flavors are timeless.

Of course, no epic is without its waves. Lundy’s faced criticism in its later years for inconsistent quality, and the Red Hook spot grapples with the risks of reviving a icon—does it honor the past or chase trends? Yet, for Brooklynites, Lundy’s evokes memories of family outings, first dates, and the simple joy of a biscuit dunked in chowder. So, if you’re in Sheepshead Bay, tip your hat to the old building; or head to Red Hook for a taste. Thanks for joining this nautical narrative—now, go chase some seafood dreams!

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